We recently took the opportunity that Madison Restaurant Week provides to sample Ovations restaurant at the Concourse Hotel.  Our interest was piqued a few months ago when Madison Dining Online participated as a judge at the Madison Food and Wine Show Dueling Chef competition.  Competing in that heat was Chef Charles Lazzareschi of Ovations.  Since then, we’ve been looking for an excuse to put aside our prejudice when it comes to a hotel-based restaurant, and to give Ovations a try.  We were not disappointed, to say the least.

Madison Restaurant Week allows Madison Diners the chance to sample innovative three course menus at a very good price ($25).  And we certainly got our money’s worth at Ovations.  There were two diners in our party, and we started our first course off with the Memphis Dry Rub Ribs served atop a cabbage slaw, and a  Curried Bacon Flatbread, with Feta Cheese, Tomato and Basil.  Both first courses were not only served with a remarkable presenation, but they tasted as good as they looked.  It was remarked upon that there would be no hesitancy at all to order the Ribs as an entree, had it been an offering.  Smoky, without the cloying sauce, these were some of the best ribs we’ve tasted in Madison.  The Flatbread was crisp and piled high with flavorful toppings.

Our Second Course consisted of a Grilled Atlantic Salmon, served with a Crab Cake, Micro Greens and a Leek Creme Fraiche, as well as the Three Pepper Grilled Flat Iron Steak, with Pommes Frites, Bacon-Caper Relish and Lemon Thyme Butter.   These entrees were very well plated, and the presentation took center stage.  The flavor followed closely behind.  The Salmon had a crispy outer crust which lead into a flaky, moist interior.  The Flat Iron was robust and yet very tender, with excellent flavor as well.

Restaurant Week menus include a dessert course, and this one did not disappoint.  Our choices included the Pumpkin Cake with Cream Cheese filling, served along side a poached pear.  The Rustic Apple Tart was also chosen, served with a Caramel, Vanilla and Chocolate sauce.  All in all, a very solid, satisfying end to the meal.

As stated at the start of this post, after accumulating well over a million miles in frequet flier miles, hotel restaurants hold mainly disdain in my eyes.  But Ovations simply does not belong in the “hotel restaurant” category.  The chef is extremely skilled and imaginative, and it is clear that this restaurant is not catering to the lowest common demoninator.  We left Ovations trying to come up with good reasons to go back again… and soon.

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