Editors note: With this article, Madison Dining Online continues the series by guest columnist Greg Fowlkes. Greg will be contributing an ongoing series of articles covering wine, beer, and other topics, while applying a local Madison slant to the topics. Here’s the third article in a series on wine lists - what to look for, rating wine lists, and the best wine lists in Madison. See the previous articles, Liquid Assets - The Five Rules of Wine Lists and Liquid Assets - What Makes A Good Wine List?.

 Three Stand Out Madison Wine Lists

In the previous two installments, I’ve discussed wine lists in general terms. In this issue, I’ll get down to specifics about wine lists at three very different restaurants and why I like them.

The first restaurant is Rossario’s in Monona. This is a neighborhood restaurant which servers a variety of pasta dishes along with a few steaks and prime rib on Thursday and Saturday. It’s very much a no frills, blue collar sort of place that regulars have been frequenting for years. The pasta entrees are  around $10, with the steaks and prime rib running around $12-$17. The wine list is short with eight or nine reds and a slightly smaller number of whites. The prices for a bottle of wine run from about $14-$20, though Ross Parisi, the owner has recently added at least one wine over $25.

There are two things I like about this list. The first is that it is inexpensive. You can have two pasta entrees and a nice bottle of Italian Sangiovese for $35. This makes it affordable for a weekday night. The second thing that I like is that considerable thought and effort has gone into picking the wines. About half the list of reds are Italian with a mix of Chianti, Sangiovese (the grape used in Chianti) and Montepulcianos. The other half consists of an Australian Shiraz, a Zinfandel, a Merlot, and a Cabernet. Though the wines are all inexpensive, they are all a cut above what you will find on the lower shelves of your supermarket liquor department. As an aside, Ross is as thoughtful with his selection of beers, and offers a nice range of microbrews and imports.

The second restaurant is Louisianne’s Etc. in Middleton. This establishment pioneered Creole cuisine back when that was considered truly exotic in Madison. Louisianne’s Etc. serves up a number of reasonably priced traditionally dishes including Jambalya and catfish, as well as uniquely prepared beef, chicken and pork dishes, all with a New Orleans slant.

It has a fairly lengthy list with about 50 reds and 30 whites. The prices range from $25-$200.

What I like about this list is the fact it is diverse without losing it’s focus, which is to complement the food. A number of different varietals are featured, such as Petit Syrah, Syrah, Zinfandel, as well as some interest blends such as Grenache-Syrah, and Zinfandel-Cabernet. Most of the major wine growing regions are represented with both prominent and less well known producers. The common factor is that they all work well with the restaurant’s Creole cuisine. Whenever I dine at Louisianne’s I always have a hard time choosing a wine because there are so many tempting candidates. I have never been disappointed and have been introduced to a number of wines that have become personal favorites. It is obvious that someone with a great deal of experience and knowledge has put together this list. I should also note that the wines are all fairly priced.

The last restaurant I will mention is an old Madison institution, though technically it is in the town of Westport on the North side. Mariner’s Inn serves steaks and seafood, with an emphasis on simplicity and high quality. They manage to blend a casual atmosphere with a certain degree of formality that makes for a very relaxing dining experience. The entrees run from around $15-40. There are roughly 20 whites and 30 reds with an additional reserve list of 20 or so higher priced reds. Wine prices run from $25-$200 per bottle with the vast majority of the reds in the $35-$60 range.

This may be one of the most focused wine lists of this size that I have come across. The red side of the list is dominated by Napa and Sonoma Cabernet, Merlot, and Cabernet/Merlot blends. There is a smaller selection of West Coast Pinot Noir, as well as several Syrah and Zinfandels, but it is obvious that the latter are included as an after thought for customers who really, really want a Syrah or Zin. While decent wines, they are nothing special. The Cabernet and Merlot offerings, on the other hand are very good from producers such as Stag’s Leap and Duckhorn. Several of the regular wines are usually found on the reserve pages of other restaurants. Many of the reserve wines could be considered “trophy wines” with offerings such as Quintessa, Chateau St. Jean Cinq Cepages, Dominus, Freemark Abbey, and Penfold’s Grange to name a few. For a menu that consists of a variety of steaks with fairly simple preparation, this selection works quite well.

The most amazing thing about this list is the price. The von Rutenbergs appear to have chosen on an unusual pricing strategy - add a fixed amount of $10-15 to the retail price of the wine. The end result is that while the least expensive wines are priced at about what you will find at other restaurants, the more expensive wines become progressively better bargains as you move up the list. As an example, Duckhorn Merlot, which can be found at $75-$130 at other restaurants is priced at $55. I find myself seduced into spending more for wine at Mariner’s while still feeling that I’ve gotten a bargain.

Though these wine lists are as different as the restaurants are, there are some common attributes. The first is that selections were given a lot of thought. They are lists designed to go with the food served. They are also, within the context of the restaurants, quite affordable. Wine can only enhance the dining experience if the patrons order it. These three restaurants have priced most of their wines at a point where they are not extravagances but a complement to the meal. There are other restaurants in Madison that could take a hint.

Several caveats. I have mostly concentrated on the reds because that is what I usually order in a restaurant. However, I think that these three establishments have given as much thought to the white side of their list as the red. The second, is that I have dined regularly at these restaurants for a number of years and have come to know several of the owners on a personal level. I have tried not to let that cloud my judgement. Perhaps that fact that I have been a repeat customer for so long is the best recommendation for their food and their wine.

You might also like this:

• Liquid Assets - What Makes A Good Wine List?
• Liquid Assets - The Five Rules of Wine Lists